Annual Pilgrimage to the Master of the Riesling
Every year for the last 5 years or so there was one visit to a wine estate that was simply a must. Helmut Dönnhoff makes my favorite Rieslings, and he makes them in the lovely Nahe valley that always brings back childhood images to me, as I had lived in Bad Kreuznach at the Nahe until the age of eight. Perhaps my adulation for the Nahe wines is rooted in sentimentalty, but there are worse things it might be rooted in. So, we took the longer route, via Bad Kreuznach, which leads to Bad Münster, turns right, and you suddenly look at the Traiser Bastei:
Is this a vineyard?
Yes, it is one of Germanies tiniest vineyards, one of "grand crus" of the Nahe, right at the foot of the enourmous Rotenfels rock face. Just a handful of rows here and there, on incredibly stony soil, giving the wines a pungent porphyr minerality, which can be tastet in the Traiser Bastein wines of Weingut Crusius. Alas, we pass by Cruisius today, and move on to Oberhausen, which lies across the Nahe (via the bridge that gives name to it's best vineyard), facing the grand cru vineyards, belonging to Niederhausen and Schlossböckelheim: The Felsenberg, Kupfergrube, Herrmansberg, and Herrmannshöhle (from left to right).
5 top sites of the Nahe
Hidden by the trees, below the Herrmannsberg, lies the Dönnhoff monopole Oberhäuser Brücke (another tiny "grand cru" vineyard), while the Schlossböckelheimer Felsenberg streches out further to the left. The Niederhauser Herrmannshöhle deserves another picture of its own (some of the master's plots are in replantation).
Oberhäuser Brücke (state domain in the background)
Felsenberg with "Türmchen"
Oberhausen, and the goddess above
The 2002 Vintage
It could have been great, but as in other areas, the autumn was wet in the Nahe area, and made the harvest a long and tedious affair. The strenght of vintage lies in the range up to Spätlese, where quality and quantity are so high that it is a wonderful follow up to the highly touted 2001 vintage. It was almost impossible to produce Auslesen though, and Dönnhoff managed to make some in tiny amounts, while the is a bit more Eiswein to go 'round this year (made in mid December).
On to the wines now. All predicate wines, or vineyard designated wines, are Rieslings, of course.
Trocken Wines
A very successful bunch. The superb Riesling QbA trocken, which is minerally, substantial, and racy, would be almost worth the trip alone. Better than in 01, it reminds me of the 00 in its quality. (No, not every 01 was the best ever...) I also like the slightly floral Weissburgunder QbA trocken, which is fuller, and shows grapefruity cut, while the Grauburgunder QbA trocken seems a bit shy now. The Leistenberg Kabinett trocken is racy, cristal clear, deceptively light yet it has power to it. I like my Leistenberg better with some res. sugar, but this is good stuff. The Felsenberg Spätlese trocken is of course richer, with more generous yellow fruit, while the Herrmannshöhle Spätlese trocken is easily the most profound of the dry wines, providing depth and harnmony of a great dry Riesling in a sleeker package than other leading dry Rieslings. Give this a bit more time though.
The master, and his disciples
Sweet wines
The Riesling QbA did not quite match the performance of its dry sibling, but I tend to underrate it anyway. The Dellchen Kabinett is juicy and generous. The Leistenberg Kabinett is once again sleeker, more minerally precise, pure and racy. The elegance and length are of a higher breed than the lesser prestige of the site suggest. But Nahe insiders hold the Leistenberg in highest regard, and I do too. The Kirschheck Spätlese is as delightful as ever, the piquance of cherries is all over it. The Felsenberg Spätlese (there is no auction Spätlese in 2002) has more of a yellow fruit cocktail, but also a mineral streak that seems to alternate with the fruity side of the wine. I like this a lot. The Kupfergrube Spätlese is juicy again, perhaps not quite as pwerful as in 01, but well built. First of the two primus inter pares, the Brücke Spätlese seems a bit reserved at this stage. It is never the most showy Spätlese early on. But the wine has a lenght to it that is easily overlooked. It sneaks back almost, and tells you that you're not finished with it just yet. This time though, the Goddess of the Spätlese reigns supreme: the Herrmannshöhle Spätlese is simply stunning - no brain required to see it. The depth and density of flavor, the length and complexity are on a different level. Another master-piece.
Klaus K. enjoys the good sides of his job
Nobly sweet wines
The Herrmannshöhle Auslese shows only a touch of botrytis, with a bit more oiliness, but also has a strong mineral caracter, that will surely come out more in time. For the long run, this may prove another classic that may eventually surpass the Spätlese. The Brücke Auslese is bigger, and shows more botrytis influence, with a more assertive structure and surely a long development ahead. The Brücke Auslese *** (auction wine) is simply a great botrytis wine. Well into BA must weight, it is an elexir of a wine. It ranks along the best of Dönnhoff's auction Auslesen for me. The Brücke Eiswein "Dienstag" (AP18) is another beauty, and would be a crowning achievement except in this house, where it is followed by the Brücke Eiswein "Mittwoch" (AP19, auction wine). Another of those hugely concentrated "überrieslings" that somehow manages to be harmonious and fine at the same time. Comparisons with 98 or 95 are called for. Perhaps not quite another "Montag", but without doubt one of the best in the past decade or so.
Mosel man Phillip V. hides his feelings
And a little more to indulge in
I never tasted an over 10 year old Dönnhoff wine (except a 1966 Eiswein from the Dieter Dönnhoff estate. As it turned out, it was made by the Master too, all those years back). That's no age for a fine Riesling, and so I was more that grateful to see my horizons expanded a little on this happy occasion. The Brücke Spätlese 1983 I might have placed in the mid to late 80s. Wondefully fresh and expressive, it does hold its own even after the Eisweine. There is an exotioc touch in it, and nothing I would call petrol. It will surely last another decade, and why not more than that? By todays standards of production, this would actually sell as Kabinett, comparable perhaps to the Leistenberg above. So, leave that one for 20 years and see... As if that wasn't enough, on we go with a Herrmannshöhle Spätlese 1979. There is meaty streak to this wine, bouillon, peppers, herbs and spices. A bit more oily mouthfeel, it is on fine form and develops wonderfully in the glass, with ever deeper spice and also fruit notes. Far from being a great year (the master points out a hint of unripeness despite the probably higher must weight), it is a wine I could meditate over all evening, if I wasn't dying for a piece of meat and roast potatoes.
Do Dönnhoff wines age well? You bet...
