Tasting Notes 2003
11.10.2003 New: pictures added
I have added vineyard pictures to the region sections of Mosel, Saar, Ruwer, Nahe, and Pfalz. Here are links to all picture pages. Enjoy!
MSR 2002 3 Vineyards Tasting (+ bonus wine)
Certain parts of Belgium, and also northern France, have recently become bewitched by the Berncasteler Doctor cult. Time to taste it along two other MSR greats: the Maximin Grünhauser Abtsberg and the Piesporter Goldtröpfchen, from their leading (resp. only-) producers. Thanks to Markus S. for organising this tasting.
Maximin Grünhauser Abtsberg Riesling Kabinett 2002
some acidic fruits and smoky minerals on the nose, but quite clean actually, rather full on entry, more like Spätlese, turning piquant, very Ruwer, touch of mustard?, long mineral finish. Very impressive Kabinett.
R. Haart Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Kabinett 2002
Very yeasty still, needing lots of air to become more pure, sleek, serious grip on the palate, pink grapefruit, longer than Schubert, shows very little sugar, should be given some time
Wtw. Thanisch Berncasteler Doctor Riesling Kabinett 2002
Nose of underripe pineapple, lighter Kabinett style, less intensity, relatively short, more sweet/sour mouthfeel, watery enough to please the Fisch, suitable for summer sipping
Maximin Grünhauser Abtsberg Riesling Spätlese 2002
Some burnt rubber on the nose, tight, with air some minerals and flowers. Racy, seems almost dryer than the Kabinett, firmer, nervy tension, needs time. Will be good.
R. Haart Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Spätlese 2002
Some yeast, citrus and peach. Opulent fruit, starts quite a bit sweeter but mineral acidity keeps it on track, tasted like pure nature, hard to resist. Excellent.
Wtw. Thanisch Berncasteler Doctor Riesling Spätlese 2002
The pineapple is finer and riper, some slate, touch of sage. Delicate sweetness, very transparent, nice piquancy in the finish. Fine Mosel style.
Maximin Grünhauser Abtsberg Riesling Auslese 2002
Serious stink, sulphur, later stock cubes. Serious concentration, pure and racy stuff, no botrytis, dense. Great potential.
R. Haart Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Auslese 2002
White peach, some pineapple. Opulence of highly ripe Riesling grapes, but cool minerality and cut in the finish. Impressive.
Wtw. Thanisch Berncasteler Doctor Riesling Auslese 2002
Pinapple and Sage again, less attractive than the Spätlese, lacks fruit, good acids stand rather alone, not much fun as it is
Nigl (Krems) Riesling “Reserve” 2002 Essence of rocks, some smoke, iodine, but also attractive yellow fruit in the nose that has to be smelled to be believed. Serious depth. Killer concentrate on the palate, maximal minerality, hints of Islay whisky (but in no way alcoholic), almost painful to drink. Monster wine, not exactly pretty, but mighty impressive.
Afterthoughts: The Abtsberg Kabinett was my winner, with the Haart also being impressive. The Doctor was clearly behind those two. The Spätlesen were more even, my personal favorite (certainly for now) being the Haart. Schubert’s and Haart Auslesen are very good, and I might bet on Schubert for the seriously long term. The Doctor Auslese was quite a disgrace, and raised some questions. Was a previous showing deceptive? Could it have been a bad bottle (raised by me, dismissed by others). One thing is clear though: you pay a 50% markup for the name “Berncasteler Doctor” on the label. That means that a little, watery Kabinett from Thanish runs at €15. For just 3 more euros, €18 that is, you get Schubert Auslese, which plays three leagues above. Need I say more?
The Nigl is crazy stuff. If it ages well, it is destined for greatness. Probably the most intense dry young Riesling I have ever come across.
First tastings of MSR 2002
2001 is a hard act to follow, and the rainy October and November wheather in 2002 gave liitle hope for a great vintage, despite the fact that up to October 2002 was on course for just that, a potentially great one. Tasting some recently bottled Maximun Grünhauser wines and barrel samples of Willy Schaefer, it seems to me that the wines have turned out remarkably well under the hands of such great producers as these. Whatever it could have been, this is far from a dissapointing lot of wines, in fact I would not be so sure if I generally would prefer 2001 from these two producers over their 2002s. The range of Grünhausers I tasted reaches from as always excellent QbAs up to BA and three excellent Eisweine. The fruit is purer in many cases compared to the previous vintage, the acids are sound but refined and elegant. I was particularly impressed with the Herrnberg Kabinett (no AP yet, there may be several) which has such a laser focus and brilliance, and the Abtsberg Auslese with its glorious purity of concentrated Riesling fruit. In the higher Auslesen and Eisweine I generally found the 2002s purer and more to my taste than in 2001. Grünhaus lovers will have much joy this year! At Willy Schaefer, nothing was bottled yet. The palette of wines is quite brilliant though. From juicy Graacher Himmelrecih QbA to supremely dense Graacher Domprobst Auslese, the wines are just superb. The Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett is an irresistable summer sipper. The Domprobast Kabinett is rougher on the edges, but has seroius potential. I loved the lowest Spätlese (09) from the Domprobst for its pure fruit and its zippy acids. The top Spätlese (13) (there os one more between them) will probably go to auction, and is stunning, explosive Domprobast Riesling at it's best. There are also 3 Auslesen, of which the middle one (14) was most open and just wonderful, while the top Auslese (Auction wine?) has enormous density and potential. A great Auslese without doubt.