J. Leitz, Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg Riesling Spätlese trocken 2003
Mineral nose, fruit with an acid edge, floral overtones. On the palate the strong mineral element and the (slightly volatile?) acidity give a lot of tension. Very long. With potential but not so easy to like.
Bassermann Jordan Forster Pechstein Riesling Spätlese trocken 2003
Nice freshness on the nose, with yellow fruit, and a touch of leafy cassis. Very good density, focused and mineral, but in a friendlier package than the Leitz, Quite sleek for 03, and really well balanced. My favorite so far.
E. Schönleber Monzinger Halenberg Riesling 1 Gewächs 2003
A slatey nose with a slightly candied fruit. Noticeable residual sugar on entry, opulence with mineral undercurrent. The candied touch is regarded by one taster as a sign of drought stress, not usually found in Halenberg wines. Still, a very good wine.
Diel Dorsheimer Goldloch Riesling 1 Gewächs 2003
Quite a smokey nose. Some are reminded of barrique. Not sure if old wood is part of the explanation. Plenty of upfront opulence, the wine looses focus and trails out in the finish into a relatively empty, somewhat astringent aftertaste. Perhaps as good as the Ruck, but not as impressive as some seem to think.
Crusius Norheimer Kirschheck Riesling 1 Gewächs 2003
Citrus freshness, nice nose (cann't find cherry in it). A touch of sweetness but less obvious than in the Halenberg, Cassi and mineral elements, well buffered acidity makes you come back for more. Very drinkable despite the 2003ish alcohol level. More evidence that Crusius did very well in this vintage. I might take this over the Schönleber wine.
H. Dönnhoff Niederhäuser Herrmannshöhle Riesling 1 Gewächs 2003
The nose starts shy, but begins to hint at new dimensions of depth, hard to separate elements of fruits, minerals, herbs (is there a hint of rosemary?) and spices. No doubt about the class. The palate shows more, great density and yet fine and delicate at the same time, as it grows bigger and more complex towards the finish. Superb. Despite stiff competition for the next two wine, this remained my (and mosts) favorite. More than any other Riesling on the table it seems to transcend varietal characteristics.
Keller Westofener Kirchspiel Riesling 1 Gewächs 2003
Yeasty notes, slowly giving way to stone fruits. Spritzy entry give an impression of elegance, despite the firm mineral base and power. This is very serious stuff. The site has the reputation for great potential, and Keller seems on the way to fulfill that. I have found Keller wine a bit technical for my taste on previous encounters, but this is different, and suggests to me I should look again.
Keller Westofener Morstein Riesling 1 Gewächs 2003
Wow, this come right at you with smokey minerality and complex fruit. Impressive nose. Big and powerful, alcohol more obvious than in the Kirchspiel, but such depth of fruit and dark minerality that I put it above that wine. Not only impressive but also a joy to drink. Just not quite the ultra sophistication of the HH…
van Volxem Wiltinger Gottestfuss Riesling ‚Alte Reben '2003
A complex nose, with excotic hints (lychee?) and perhaps an overtone of sage. But as almost always with van Volxem, I find a certain lack of freshness in the nose. Would I think this is 1 year old given blind? This is not a dry wine, not even a "harmonic dry" one in my book, just stopping short of outright sweet. There is no doubting the quality, density, and depth of the fruit, but again, I sense a tiredness in the wine that makes this less to my taste than others. If you like the house style, this may well be the van Volxem to grab from 03.